Sebastian Professional Education with Heather Fritz
Modern Shag using Feather Razor Techniques
We hosted Heather Fritz for an Instagram live education on 4/13/2021 featuring Sebastian dark oil products. Here’s a recap of what we learned!
Ps. If you want to go watch the whole thing, it’s available on our IGTV @paulsbeautywarehouse
In this live class, Heather featured a modern shag cut using razor cutting technique for a soft and fluffy look.
Prep and Prime
She recommends to prep the hair with Dark Oil shampoo and conditioner, as well as with Sebastian cellophanes color gloss. She then runs 3 pumps of dark oil and 1 pump of potion 9 mixed together through damp hair.
Start with a part down the middle, then find the top of head and section from the top of each ear splitting it front and back.
The next section is a horseshoe section around the parietal ridge, sectioning the top half away and extending around the back.
The following section should be another horseshoe at mid ear slightly above the occipital and the final will be the perimeter section braid it and pin away for later.
(Heather demonstrates all sectioning in the video available on our Instagram)
Taking a small front triangle from your first section, pinch and lay flat at about the high point of the eyebrows and skim using several light passes.
Taking the next pieces of the front section, using a wrap technique, pull hair across forehead to the corner of opposite eye. Holding with soft but firm tension, skim using several passes on the interior with a slight back and forth rock. Repeat on each side. Continue taking pieces of the front section, continuing along the interior guide using wrap across and skimming techniques.
Be sure to use several passes when skimming to create soft texture and avoid harsh cuts.
Moving on to the sides, taking a forward diagonal section from your horseshoe, over direct using curtain bang as a guide all the way down for a soft angle. Repeat within each side section finding your guide from previous pieces. Use super light pressure, still rocking back and forth with medium tension.
Remember to check for balance and symmetry as you go.
Take the top back section of your horseshoe from the center part and hold straight up at 90◦. Creating square layers and checking your guide piece from the back of the bangs section, use peeling technique. This techniques removes, length and weight while creating soft textures. To peel, engage the tip of the razor with thumb and pull up on hair in small motions.
Continue to pull up to center guide and hold at 90◦, engaging and peeling ends off, following the guides.
Release occipital layer but keep final section braided away. Now making round layers, held away from head at 90◦ check guide and peel at ends, pulling straight out. Use previous sections as a traveling guide for this layer.
In thicker sections, go in vertically with razor about 1” and peel to thin ends for greater texture.
*Bonus Tip: Barbers can use peeling technique to bend undercuts into fades and blend top layers and add texture.
Release the final layer, hold out at 90◦ and skim down in short strokes and blend ends using above layers as guide. Again, using medium tension, pinching fingers and rocking slightly, creating square layers to finish the cut.
To learn more from Heather, follow her on Instagram at @Pucca7hair; be sure to stop by Paul’s Beauty Warehouse to pick up Sebastian Dark Oil and Cellophanes products.